The Providence Journal Thursday,

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Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab

Thursday, June 12, 2014

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The Providence Journal

PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE

Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_01 Color: C K Y M

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Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_02

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Thursday, June 12, 2014

The Providence Journal

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4 Things You Need to Know When Hiring a Roofer:

The Providence Journal

Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab

PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE

Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_03 Color: C K Y M

FINANCING AVAILABLE

Cost-effective fencing options

Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_04

Found material: Repurposed wood or metal can be crafted into a rustic, one-of-a-kind fence. Materials can be found that are no cost, requiring only the cost of labor. Should you build it yourself, this can be next to nothing. Sometimes existing fences on another property can be disassembled and re-built on your own property for little to no cost as well.

PROPERTIES

Thursday, June 12, 2014

The Providence Journal

Weichert, Realtors-Cress & CO.

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When choosing a fencing material, consider that even a less expensive material may prove more expensive in the long run if it needs significant maintenance or has to be replaced in just a few years. Therefore, the most cost-effective fencing material may not necessarily be the least expensive one at the store. Here are some materials homeowners can consider.

PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE

Color: C K Y M

Fencing serves many purposes. Some homeowners erect a fence for privacy, while others do so to contain pets and children. Because fencing can be expensive, some homeowners look for ways to cut costs, which can be relatively easy, especially for those homeowners willing to consider various materials when erecting their fence.

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Chainlink/chainwire: Chainlink fencing is one of the most economical types of boundary fencing. The fencing comes in a variety of diamond sizes and is fixed to galvanized pipes spaced across the perimeter of the property. Although it is some of the least expensive fencing, it does not offer much privacy on its own. But if you are looking at fencing simply as a barrier, chainlink could be the way to go. Picket fencing: A wooden picket fence is another inexpensive fencing material. The pickets can be purchased in various heights,

and this fence may be used as garden border fencing or to mark a property line between homes. Spacing the pickets widely apart may cut down on the number that need to be purchased, further keeping the cost down. Bamboo: Bamboo is a rapidly growing grass that produces a hard wood-like material that is used in many building applications. Bamboo wood can be used to build a fence, but the natural plant also can be planted to form a living fence for privacy. Stockade fencing: A stockade fence is one of the more basic wood fencing options. Wooden slats are placed alongside one another to form an effective and affordable privacy fence. Stockade fencing can be stained or painted to preserve it. Many home improvement retailers sell panels of stockade fencing so that you can make fence installation a do-it-yourself project. Vinyl fencing: Although vinyl fencing is one of the more expensive fencing materials at the outset (it costs about twice the price of a wood fence), it does pay for itself rather quickly thanks to minimal maintenance. Unlike some other materials, vinyl will not rot or discolor. You also won’t have to purchase stain, paint and expensive cleaners for a vinyl fence. That means once you make the investment, you will have years upon years of maintenance-free enjoyment. There are many different fencing materials that can coordinate with a variety of budgets.

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The Providence Journal

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PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE

Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_05

Color: C K Y M

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Don’t fret, your garden can survive awful weather By Henry Homeyer Special to The Journal

Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_06 Color: C K Y M

It seems as if the weather is getting more extreme: tornadoes, floods, drought, heat waves, cold spells. What’s a gardener to do? Well, stop worrying, for starters. Each year the weather is different - and most years we still have nice flowers, and eventually have the lettuce and tomato for a good sandwich. And unless you’re a commercial farmer, your life and livelihood will not be too adversely affected, even if the weather is bad. There are a few steps we can take to help our flowers and vegetables along, however. Planting anything is best done on a cool, cloudy day - or even in a light sprinkle. If we’ve had a few days of rain, it’s better to wait for the soil to dry out a little before planting. Tilling wet soil is definitely a no-no, and walking on wet soil can compact it, ruining soil structure.

The Providence Journal Thursday, June 12, 2014 6

I planted my tomatoes on a warm dry day in early June, and we almost immediately got hit by a spell of days in the 90s. I had grown these babies from seed, and hardened them off outside, but a big, leafy tomato can lose a lot of water in the hot sun when it’s 94. So I created some shade for my tomatoes by draping row cover over the tomato cages. It helped. Row cover is a spun synthetic fabric that is used to keep insects off plants while allowing water vapor and sunshine to pass through. It also can keep a plant a few degrees warmer early or late in the season if draped right over it. Row cover comes in various weights, and I had some of the heaviest type. It did a good job of shading my plants when placed the cages (and kept in place with clothes pins). I also kept the soil well watered during the heat wave.

then make sure to spray long enough to deliver five gallons - in a nice wide circle around the tree. Watering the root ball is not enough - dry soil nearby will wick the water away, leaving the root ball dry in no time. Many gardeners put down bark mulch in established perennial beds. This keeps down the weeds and holds in moisture. But if you add more mulch each year to pretty-up the beds, you can develop a layer of bark that is almost impermeable to rain. I find an inch to an inchand-a-half of mulch is adequate. And I try to leave a little doughnut hole around the plant so that quick showers can deliver some water to the roots. Recently I examined some maples that were dying in a parking lot - the top half of one was completely leafless, the others also showed some leaf loss. These trees were suffering from bark rot due to “mulch volcanoes”. Each had at least 6 inches of bark mulch right up against the trunk. I predict that all will be dead from bark rot within two to three years. And all will struggle getting any moisture. So be judicious in applying your mulch.

Adding compost, or aged cow manure, will help any soil. If you have sandy soil, compost will act as a sponge to hold moisture from percolating right through. If you have a clay soil, it will improve drainage and make the soil lighter and fluffier - and more receptive to roots. Avoid fresh cow or horse manure as it will introduce grass and weed seeds to your soil those animals don’t digest all the seeds.

PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab User: [email protected]

A few words about watering: I don’t like overhead sprinklers. Yes, they are easy to turn on and let the machine do the work. But they get the leaves of your plants wet, and that can encourage fungal diseases. Most fungi send out hyphae (rootlike appendages) that pierce the leaf, allowing the fungus to infect the plant. Many need a moist leaf surface to do that. Watering in the evening with an overhead sprinkler moistens the leaves and makes them more susceptible.

I like watering with a watering wand. This is a nice 30-inch long metal handle with a watering rose on one end and a shut-off on the other. The brand I like best is Dramm. It sends out a gentle spray, even with the water pressure up fairly high. I find the less expensive watering devices send sharp sprays, which can damage the plants or wash away the soil. I like the watering wand because I can deliver water to the root zone while letting the tops stay dry. Newly planted trees and shrubs need to be watered weekly, or even more often if the soil is sandy and temperatures are high. The most common cause of first-year death of trees is dehydration. But don’t just give your new tree a quick squirt. Time how long it takes for your hose to deliver five gallons of water into a bucket, and

If we have another week of rainy weather, your vegetables like tomatoes may show yellowing leaves - a sign of stress. This occurs because plants normally pull up nitrogen and other minerals from the soil with water that is used to replace water lost to transpiration on sunny days - but not in rainy spells. The solution: spray liquid fish fertilizer onto the leaves. The leaves will absorb the nitrogen and green up. So don’t worry, be happy. No matter what the weather, your garden will (eventually) be just fine.

Henry Homeyer is a gardening consultant and the author or four gardening books. His Web address is www.Gardening-Guy.com.

Addressing moss growth on your property Before addressing moss in your yard, it helps to understand why moss grows and then look at the various ways to control it once it does.

Moss is one potential lawn issue that many green-thumbers would prefer to avoid. While moss is not always harmful, it can be unsightly and lawn care enthusiasts may spend a significant amount of money attempting to control it. Controlling moss can be costly, but there are some ways to control moss that will not cost homeowners much money at all. WHAT CAUSES MOSS GROWTH? Moss can grow in a yard for a variety of reasons, but the most common cause of moss

growth is insufficient sunlight to support the grass. Sunlight might be blocked by shade from nearby trees or shrubs or even shadows from your home. Soil conditions may also be responsible for moss growth. Soil that is very acidic can promote moss growth, and the moss that grows because of acidic soil will appear very healthy. Compacted soil can also promote moss growth because such soil has low oxygen levels that make it hard for the turf to establish strong roots, and moss will take advantage of those weaker roots. Soil with low fertility levels is also amenable to moss, as it does not produce a healthy turf. Unhealthy turf makes it easy for plants with a low demand for nutrients, including moss, to establish themselves.

When soil is tested and it is determined that the soil is acidic, then the soil must be adjusted. Lime might be applied to rebalance the soil, but homeowners should consult a lawn care professional for advice as to the best way to rebalance their soil. Lawn-care enthusiasts often bristle at the sight of moss on their luscious lawns. But moss is often an easily remedied issue that homeowners can address in a variety of ways.

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If moss is growing because of compacted soil, aerate the turf and soil to break it up and allow the oxygen to reach the soil. When that occurs, the turf will begin to establish stronger roots and make it more difficult for moss to grow.

The Providence Journal

Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab

PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE

Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_07

Color: C K Y M

Lawn care enthusiasts put lots of time and effort into their lawns and take great pride when that work pays off with a luscious green lawn. But no lawn is immune to problems, and even the most well-maintained property can develop issues that compromise the lawn’s health and aesthetic appeal.

HOW CAN I SOLVE THE PROBLEM OF MOSS GROWTH? Moss that grows because of excessive shade can often be addressed with some minor efforts. If the shade is a result of trees or bushes, prune them regularly so sunlight can reach the turf and promote strong turf and roots. If the shade is caused by your house, then you might consider removing the existing turf and then seeding the area with a turf mix that caters to shaded areas.

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PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE

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RI 401-842-6303 • 508-679-1560 • Toll-Free 888-817-1560 The Providence Journal 9

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REMODELING

When you plant potatoes, keep an eye out for blight By Henry Homeyer Special to The Journal

Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_10

Color: C K Y M

Why is it that some people use nicknames for their children that are the names of vegetables or flowers? I’m sure you are familiar with “sweet pea” as a loving epithet (even for kids who are not sweet), or “pumpkin” for children who are neither round nor orange. The French, I am told, call their lovers “petit chou” which translates as “little cabbage.” But I have never heard anyone refer to a loved one as a potato. I wonder why, since potatoes are some of the easiest of vegetables to grow. I suggest you plant some now if you haven’t already.

Thursday, June 12, 2014

The Providence Journal

If you have those nasty potato beetles, what should you do? The first line of defense is handpicking. Look for the yellowish larvae or striped adults on leaves, and pop them in soapy water. Look for orange eggs on the underside of leaves, too. Check daily as soon as you have leaves on your plants. Don’t let a second generation get started, and you will have fewer problems.

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I always wait until June to plant my potatoes, even though I could have done so in early May. I have found that later planting decreases problems with the Colorado potato beetle. That is an observation that I have previously reported here, and other gardeners have told me that when they planted later they, too, had fewer problems. I like to joke that by planting later all the beetles have gone next door.

You might also try an organic spray to control beetles. It is called Bt, which stands for Bacterium thuringiensis, a naturally occurring soil bacterium that is available at garden centers as a powder. Dilute it with water and spray on leaves. When larvae eat leaves with the bacterium, a protein in the bacterium makes them sicken and die. It is not a contact poison, and will not harm us or our critters - nor will it kill adult beetles. Potatoes are grown from sprouted pieces of last year’s crop. I generally save potatoes from one year to the next for planting. I went 25

years without buying potatoes until we got late blight in 2010. Blight can overwinter in potatoes, so it is not advisable to keep potatoes for planting if you’ve had late blight. If you want to plant potatoes, don’t buy them at the grocery store. Most conventional potatoes are treated to prevent them from sprouting. Buy “seed potatoes” sold for planting - they are guaranteed disease-free.

the soil over the trench to create even more growing space. The third way to plant is to use a post hole digger. Dig holes 6 to 9 inches deep, add compost and fertilizer in the bottom of the hole and stir. Place your potato in the hole and cover with 2 inches of soil. As the potato vine grows, it is easy to push a little soil down the hole - in fact, rain often does it for me. If you mulch your plants with straw or hay it will help keep down the weeds and keep the soil lightly moist. I wait to mulch until plants are a foot tall.

There are many varieties of potatoes available to choose from. One of the most productive is Kennebec, the classic white Maine potato. Also very good is Red Pontiac, which has red skins and a white interior. Both are excellent keepers, staying tasty all winter and into the spring. I also grow purple-skinned potatoes; they are called All Blue or Peruvian Blue, though they are smaller Photo by Henry Homeyer and less productive than some. And I usually grow Yukon Gold, a yellow-fleshed potato that is very tasty and I have tried three different planting techniques, and all work just fine. Let’s start with the easiest. quite productive. Fingerling potatoes are tasty, but much less productive than those listed Loosen the garden soil with a spading fork above. and stir in some bagged organic fertilizer and compost to the soil. Place on the soil surface Harvesting potatoes is one of the high points of some seed potatoes (or pieces of seed potatoes) with at least two “eyes” (buds). Then cover them my garden year. I start in mid- to late summer, stealing a few by reaching down under a plant with 6 inches of hay. Add more compost or soil and pulling up a potato or two for dinner, but on top of the hay so that no light gets to the not disturbing the plant. Digging potatoes in the chunks of potato. As the plants grow, add more fall is like digging for treasure, and is great to do hay and/or soil. The potatoes themselves grow with kids. above the seed potato; they need 6 inches of covering to have adequate space to develop. So plant a few potatoes this summer - and start a I have also planted potatoes in a trench 6 inches new trend by calling your loved one your “little potato.” As far as I am concerned, that would be deep. I loosen the soil in the trench and add a compliment! some compost and bagged organic fertilizer. I place the seed potatoes 8 to 12 inches apart, push them into the loose soil, and cover them Henry Homeyer is a gardening consultant and with 2 inches of soil. As they grow I add more the author or four gardening books. His Web soil until the trench is full. Some people hill up address is www.Gardening-Guy.com.

Deer proofing a garden

Keeping deer at bay involves some work and maintenance on the part of a homeowner. There are safe and humane methods to repelling deer, or at least blocking access to the plants worth protecting. Here are the main ways to deer-proof a garden.

FENCE IT

Fences are one way to deter deer from entering a yard and dining on your garden. Keep in mind that deer can jump fences that are quite tall, but they have to be especially motivated to jump an eightfoot-tall fence. Still, they tend to be weary about scaling a fence when they cannot see what is on the other side. Therefore, if you are fencing out deer, choose a fence that camouflages the garden well and completely encloses the area to be protected. If you do not want the fence to be solid, consider putting stakes or thorny plants within the garden so that the deer will hesitate to jump into the garden.

SCARE THEM

Deer are naturally skittish around people, but over time they can become quite complacent around human beings. Once a deer decides that something will not present a threat, the deer can adapt to its presence.

Motion-activated devices may not work, nor the presence of pets. Predator urine is typically an effective way at keeping deer at bay. Bottled coyote urine can be quite effective, although human urine may work as well. Reapplying the product weekly around the plants is a good idea.

REPEL THEM

There are many organic or chemically-based products on the market that deer may find offensive to the taste or smell. Hot pepper, sulfur and eggs or even the use of soapy water have been successful in certain instances. The use of blood meal or even human hair around the garden may repel the deer and keep them on a different foraging path. However, remember that any deer that is very hungry may ignore unpleasant tastes or smells for a quick bite.

CHANGE PLANTS

If other food sources are available, there are some species of plants and trees that deer will avoid. Filling your garden with these plants can help you maintain a beautiful, albeit untasty, environment for deer. WHEN PLANTING ANNUALS, SELECT AMONG:

• Alyssum • Begonias • Calendula • Celosia • Dianthus • Foxglove • Geraniums • Parsley • Poppy • Snapdragons PLANT THESE HERBS ALONGSIDE FLOWERS FOR EVEN MORE PROTECTION:

• Chives • Eucalyptus • Garlic • Mint • Thyme • Wintergreen

IN TERMS OF PERENNIALS, PLANT THESE ITEMS ONCE, AND DEER COULD STAY AWAY:

• Ageratum • Anemone • Astibe • Bearded iris • Catmint • Honeysuckle • Lantana • Monkshood • Rock rose • Rosemary • Soapwort • Wisteria Gardeners who use a combination of methods to keep deer out of their yards and gardens may have a higher success rate at deterring these animals.

Thursday, June 12, 2014 11

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Deer are opportunists who will no doubt see your garden as a salad bar ripe with all of their favorite foods. As housing developments continue to encroach on the natural habitats of deer and other animals, these animals are becoming more visible. Deer may not be able to forage for food effectively in their smaller, natural surroundings, or they may become accustomed to the “easy pickings” they find in neighborhood yards. Either way, you may encounter a deer in or around your area.

The Providence Journal

Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab

PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE

Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_11 Color: C K Y M

Creating a beautiful and bountiful garden is a popular pastime for people all across the country. It is important to keep in mind that aesthetically appealing plants may be appetizing to area wildlife, including deer. Those who do not want their gardens to turn into allyou-can-eat buffets for deer, rabbits and other wild animals can take a more proactive approach to gardening.

Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_12 Color: C K Y M PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE

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Thursday, June 12, 2014

The Providence Journal

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The Providence Journal

Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab

PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE

Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_13 Color: C K Y M

Hours: MON-SAT 8-5:30 8-5:00 • SUN 8-4

We buy Gold, Silver Jewelry

Eco-conscious ways to tend to your lawn Many homeowners are constantly on the lookout for ways to make their homes more environmentally friendly. Such a pursuit is both noble because it helps the environment and practical because it often saves money. Stay local.

Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_14

Color: C K Y M

If you need to plant new grass or you’re beginning a garden, then stick with local plants, flowers and grasses rather than more exotic options that are not native to your area. Plants, flowers and grasses that aren’t native to your region will require more maintenance and often more watering. That added maintenance might prove to be a headache, and that excessive watering will not be beneficial to the environment. Native plants, flowers and grasses have already adapted to your climate, and they can be provide just as much aesthetic appeal as more exotic alternatives.

Thursday, June 12, 2014

The Providence Journal

A push mower that does not rely on gas to work is one way homeowners can take a more eco-friendly approach to lawn care.

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Turn back the clock on your tools.

While there are many eco-friendly improvements homeowners make inside their homes, it’s important to note that there are several ways for men and women to be more environmentally conscious outside of their homes as well. Lawn care can be done in a way that’s conscious of the environment, and the results can be just as appealing as if the lawn were tended to without regard for the planet. The following are just a few of the many ways homeowners can adopt more ecofriendly practices when tending to their lawns.

Be conscientious when watering. Overwatering a lawn is pretty common, especially during the dog days of summer, when homeowners try to overcompensate for hot days with excessive watering. The growth of moss on sidewalks or the driveway is a telltale sign that you’re watering too

much, as is a standing pool of water on the grass. Homeowners who find it difficult to determine when their lawns have gotten enough water can purchase an intelligent irrigation control system that adapts your watering to a lawn’s needs as well as the weather.

Avoid pesticides. Many homeowners treat their lawns with pesticides, which can make a lawn look beautiful. But that beauty typically comes at a steep price, impacting local wildlife and perhaps even the local water supply. When pesticides are applied to a lawn, the chemicals within may run off into your local water supply. If you can’t avoid pesticides entirely, then do your best to minimize how often you use them.

Before gas mowers became the standard, man-powered push mowers were used to cut the grass. Such mowers still exist, and they require no fuel, making them a more eco-friendly option than their gas-powered counterparts. Along those same lines, leaf blowers are a far less friendly way to rake leaves in the fall or clean the yard after a long winter. While there’s no denying their effectiveness, leaf blowers need gas to operate, while a rake just requires some elbow grease and a little extra time out in the yard.

Don’t let rain water go to waste. Rain barrels are a great way to make good use of rain. Rain barrels can be placed beneath a gutter’s downspout, where they will collect water that can be reused throughout your property to water the lawn and garden. Rain barrels can be relatively expensive, but over time they will pay for themselves as you save money on your water bill. Lawn care can be conducted in a way that benefits the environment as well as your bottom line.

Tackle flying pests in the yard

enjoy bugs’ presence as true harbingers of the new season, others who are less enamored with flying insects, especially when they make time outdoors into an exercise in discomfort. Homeowners concerned about the presence of flying insects in their yard can take various steps to manage sharing outdoor spaces with insect life.

PREVENTION

Different varieties of insects begin their lives as eggs that may hatch into nymphs or worm-like creatures known as larvae. Oftentimes, these eggs are deposited in water or in damp areas. Mosquito larvae, for example, thrive in stagnant water before they turn into winged, biting insects. Keeping outdoor areas free of standing water and ensuring proper drainage are two ways to reduce the population of certain bugs in the yard. Welcoming animals, such as birds

enjoy the weather while the insects stay on the other side of the screen. In climates where three-season swimming is possible, some homeowners actually create screened-in rooms that encompass their entire pool.

TRAPS

heroes of the landscape, as they are responsible for pollinating many flowers and plants.

There are a variety of different traps on the market geared toward different insect life. Most use some sort of attractant, whether a scent or light to lure the insects to the trap. Then the bugs fall inside and cannot get out. Although there are some chemical-based traps or bug “zappers,” there are other more natural traps and more humane options, too. Setting traps away from patios and living spaces will lure the insects to the traps and keep them away from you. Once the trapped insects expire, you can bury them in the ground to naturally decompose. Setting traps out very early in the season will help to trap as many emerging insects as possible. You also may be able to trap the queens of certain insects, like bees or wasps, further reducing the number of bugs you will see throughout the year.

REPELLENTS

Repellents are natural or chemically derived formulas that are worn or placed in proximity to people. These repellents want insects to find them. Once found, the repellents’ smell or taste is deemed questionable by the insects, who will then seek out other areas to reside. Repellents will vary in efficacy and some may need to be reapplied frequently to remain effective. However, they are a useful tool when you will not be staying in one spot in the yard.

SCREENS

If you spend ample time outdoors, especially at dusk, then investing in a screened-in room may be the way to go. This way you can

BENEFICIAL BUGS

Insects like butterflies and bees are the unsung

Honeybees and bumblebees will generally keep to themselves if their nests are not disturbed and can actually be enjoyable to watch as they buzz from flower to flower. Wasps, like yellowjackets, can be attracted to sweet smells, so keeping sugary drinks and foods covered can keep them at bay. Or you may want to lure them to another area of the yard with a bit of raw meat or a can of fruit punch. Sharing outdoor living spaces with flying insects can be aggravating. But there are many options at a homeowner’s disposal to control such unwanted guests.

Gardening tips for beginners Gardening can be a little daunting for beginners who have little or no experience planting flowers or vegetables. But gardening need not be so intimidating, especially for those beginners who adhere to the following tip to start their gardens off on the right foot. Preparing the soil a few weeks before you start planting can help the plants thrive down the road. Add some organic material, such as compost or fertilizer, to the soil roughly three weeks before planting. This helps the soil retain water and nutrients, which will help your garden thrive. Mulch can be as aesthetically appealing as it is effective. Mulch retains soil, helping roots to grow stronger, while deterring bugs and preventing weed growth. And many gardeners find mulch adds visual appeal their garden, and does so in a very inexpensive way.

Thursday, June 12, 2014 15

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When the weather warms, insects that may have been dormant during the winter begin to exit their dens and reproduce in earnest. Many insects overwinter as eggs and larvae, and multitudes break their dormancy at the same time as host plants. Beetles, flies, gnats, bees, mosquitoes, termites, butterflies, moths, and many other bugs can be seen in abundance in the spring. While there are people who

and bats that feed on a trove of insects, to the yard can naturally keep insect numbers down. Flies lay about 50 to 100 eggs at one time. The eggs will hatch into maggots in as little as 12 hours after being deposited. Keeping yards free from decaying matter, especially around entertaining areas, can limit the number of flies in the yard.

The Providence Journal

Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab

PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE

Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_15 Color: C K Y M

The warmer months provide ample opportunities for outdoor entertaining or simply enjoying time spent in the yard as a family. But moments in the fresh air and sunshine can be negatively affected by the presence of flying, buzzing or biting bugs.

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Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_16 Color: C K Y M

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The Providence Journal

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